French gastronomy is incredible. We can be proud of this heritage and our ability to constantly renew ourselves. And we can also say “Kakarico and Banzai”! Indeed, in recent years, star chefs have no longer hidden their attraction to Japan. It must be said that Japanese gastronomy is exquisite. There are bridges between our country, France, and Japan at this level: differences but also similarities whether in precision, the attraction for fresh products, meticulousness, delicacy, ceremonial, service…
If the chefs turn to Japan, they also do so with a benevolent view of Japanese sake. Also, I suggest you discover big names who have collaborated with major sake houses. For this, it’s a little quiz that you can relive here, live during my appearance on France Bleu Gironde. Don’t forget that at the end of the article you have the link to access all the replays of the cooking show and the Bloggers’ Brigade of which I have been a part for several years now (and not without pride)!
For this little game, I suggest giving you some clues:
– A signature dish: THE dish that this chef has mastered, the dish that everyone asks for, that everyone knows because it is the very essence of this chef.
– A French starred chef and nothing but French!
– A strong partnership between France and Japan thanks to this sake collaboration.
Here we go my friend!
1) The signature dish: The Cookpot
It’s Alain Ducasse of course! With designer Pierre Tachon, they had the idea of creating a white porcelain casserole dish with a stew of 7 vegetables. Another flagship dish from Alain Ducasse, Cappon Magro which is a fish galantine with vegetables in a terrine, served cold. Oishiii.
Concerning the sake adventure, it was in 2021 that Alain Ducasse, helped by his head sommelier Gérard Margeon, made a collaboration with the very beautiful house Shichiken. This Kura was created in 1750 and you can find its entire history in my book, 111 Sake not to be missed. The marriage of French gastronomy and Japanese know-how will give birth to Shichiken Alain Ducasse Sparkling Saké. It is a blend of a classic sake, a kijoshu (sweet sake) and a part aged in cherry wood barrels (sakura). It is a very beautiful and pure sake with tension and complex aromatics. I particularly appreciate the label and its 12% alcohol content.
2) The signature dish: Soy risotto with truffle and oyster juice
Thierry Marx of course! This French chef has more than one trick up his sleeve and therefore several signature dishes. But this one still comes up regularly. Modern chef, with a lot of personality and heart, Thierry Marx is essential today due to the quality of his cuisine and his media coverage. This dish is the alliance of two worlds between the sweetness of soy and the aromatic power of truffle and oyster.
For sake, chef Thierry Marx turned to the Wakaze house located in the Paris suburbs in 2023. You can also discover the history of this Kura in my book published by EMONS. The collaboration creates 3 vintages: Iconic (round and fresh for iodine-based dishes), Magnifique (made with a white Koji, it has citrus notes and a nice tension) and Unique (which will have aged in barrels of Parisian whiskey which gives authenticity and woody notes). These 3 sakes are notably served in the Chef’s new restaurant, rue Faubourg Saint Honoré in Paris: Onor.
3) The signature dish: Potatoes puree
The potatoes purée is obviously Joël Robuchon. This incredible chef is in the Pantheon of the greatest. His original cuisine which at the same time respected the codes of French gastronomy is in the memory of all those who were able to taste it. I had this chance at the Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez in Bordeaux: it was superb! The famous apple puree is such a simple recipe and yet you had to think about it. The kilo of fingerling potatoes comes with 250g of cold butter and not 1kg as has often been said. The chef’s skill is essential but this recipe can be reproduced at home.
Joël Robuchon did not create sake like the other two chefs. But he has teamed up with the well-known Maison Asahi Shuzo, whose flagship brand is essential in the world of sake: Dassai. Here too, you can read more in my book (no, it’s not self-promotion at all!) which you can find in all good bookstores.
After a meeting between the Chef and Hiroshi Sakurai of Dassai, the two men decided to combine their passion for beauty and goodness in a setting in Paris. In April 2018, La Boutique Dassai Joël Robuchon opened its doors. Unfortunately, the chef will never set foot there because he died some time before… Within the establishment, there is a tea room, a boutique but also a delicious restaurant where signature dishes from Joël Robuchon rub shoulders with sakes from Dassai or are judiciously diverted with an exquisite Japan touch like the Green Apple with Mirin or the Saké Soufflé! Oishiiii once again! It’s MOF Eric Bouchenoire who is in the kitchen and we are very happy…
Thank you everyone for participating in this little game! I hope you liked it. I’ll see you next week for a new article and a new radio appearance at 10:37 a.m.!
#France Bleu Gironde broadcast from February 8, 2024 with Marie-Corine Cailleteau: click on the link to listen to the replay more easily!
